Our South African Wild Coast adventure.
Verdict
The jaw-dropping vistas along this (previously) unspoilt section of the South African coast is the undisputed star of the show. The drive there and time spent in Port St. Johns was just the starter, with the guided hike the main course and dessert all wrapped into one.
We did not feel that this was a ‘cultural’ tour experience, in the sense that no one tried to give us the ‘overseas tourist experience’ with tales and fables. The relaxed conversations with our guides along the way and the homestays did, however, give us a glimpse of the unhurried and peaceful life in the small, safe villages we passed through.
Was there always electricity and running water? No. Did I go to bed hungry or dirty? No.
Did I feel safe and comfortable in my bed? Yes, absolutely.
Tips
The R61 between Mthatha and Port St. Johns is a lovely driving road through rolling hills and villages down to the coast. Just don’t be fooled by the distance and think you can make up time. As with most roads in the area, free-roaming cattle and speedbumps through settlements just when you think you are picking up the pace to your seaside retreat will cut you right back down to size. If Google Maps says it will take 1h22 mins to drive 72km, you might as well accept it.
Will we be back? Yes, with the kids in tow we skipped the more challenging stretches and we look forward to returning to hike more of this landscape.
What would we have done differently
Seek advice from locals when planning your trip. Even though it is a relatively large track of coastline, word spreads quickly about bad service, tourist traps to avoid or gems to discover. For example, hotel operators like Enrico gladly share their knowledge to enrich visitors’ experiences. You can reach out to us at SaffaTraveler if you need any contact details.
If you are making use of a guided hike provider, take some time to talk through as much detail as possible beforehand. This will ensure that there are no expectation gaps or surprises. For example, at one point the vehicle that arrived for our (turns out 6+ hour) transfer attempted to answer the age-old question of how many people and their luggage can you fit in a Datsun Go. A few phone calls later, however, and a more adequately sized minivan was arranged to meet us along the way.
SaffaTravel-o-meter: 8/10. Because we put the trip together rather hurriedly, more than anything else.
Making our way to the start of our hike
Our travels took us from the Sunshine Coast, through East London and acroos the Kei River Pont to Seagulls Beach. After a few days spent exploring, we took on the N2 to Port St. Johns.
Traveling for more hours than expected we had to slowly navigate our way, as the sun had set and the animals (donkey, cow, random low-flying pig) encountered in the middle of the road, make the road very dangerous.
We arrived at Amapondo Backpackers at 8pm, much later than expected, but was warmly welcomed. The reception staff even helped carry our heavy luggage up the many steps to our family bungalow situated in the forest (or jungle, as the kids liked to call it).
With sunrise we could take it all in and the views from Amapondo are just breath-taking. I dare to say that Port St John's is the most spectacularly beautiful part of the Wild Coast and if you are looking for a rustic and authentic experience here, then this is the place to be. Even though we were staying in a backpackers’ lodge, the family bungalow (Crystal house) gave us the privacy and comfort, whilst still giving us the option to join all the colourful characters hanging out at the bar and get a bit of the backpacker's vibe.
We had lots of rain the last evening of our stay, bringing cooler weather. What can be a challenging situation, being stuck in a small open plan bungalow, turned out to be great fun. Each of us had to designing a Ndebele hut, using material gathered outside. Sitting and chatting on the small stoep while the rain was pouring down and the thunder struck across the sea, playing Uno on the double bed, are special moments and memories, hopefully never to be forgotten.
Given the storm that came through, we moved the start of our hike out by two days, once again proving the value of being flexible. We spent the two days along the river, giving us the chance to explore another part of town.
Highlights of our stay:
The kids loved the friendly dogs and spent hours trying to catch gecko's. Their imagination went wild in the ‘jungle’ setting, using bamboo offcuts as cups to drink water from, collecting sticks and practicing their ‘ninja’ moves. There were always one or two cheeky monkeys around looking for something to snatch and the kids loved chasing and scaring them (or maybe it was the other way around…).
The beach is a short walk away and offer the iconic sight of cows chilling on the beach. They don’t even bother to be interested in anything you do, so this makes for great photo opportunities.
Guided hike from Port st. Johns to Hole in the Wall
List of items to pack on a guided hike:
- Small backpack, small amount of clothes, including something warm for the evenings.
- Hiking shoes (we found decent trainers to be sufficient)
- Swimsuit & rain jacket
- Toiletries & towels
- Suncream
- Mosquito repellent
- Cameras
- One litre water bottle
We had the opportunity to send some of our belongings ahead, firstly through our own driver and secondly the Coffee Bay Backpackers’ - they frequently organise guided walks for their guests to Hole in the Wall, including a return transfer. We left our packs with the driver who dropped it off at the gate of our Hole in the Wall accommodation, no problem.
I can highly recommend that you enquire about this option with your hike operator – not having to carry a backpack makes the walk so much more enjoyable.